How to run Coax Cable in New Construction? 21 Step-by-step

The best way to run coax cable for new construction is a question that many people ask.

How to run coax cable in new construction? It can be tricky, but it doesn’t have to be. You’ll learn how to install your own coaxial cabling system with this guide on running coax cable in new construction.

This article will help you understand the basics of installing your own home network and teach you everything about running coax cable systems for both CATV (cable TV) and satellite television reception as well as high speed internet access. We cover all the basic concepts behind RF transmission lines including impedance, attenuation, velocity factor and more!

How to run Coax Cable in New Construction
How to run Coax Cable in New Construction

How to run Coax Cable in New Construction?

Your home may be wired for cable service, but you want to add a new TV. Or perhaps you added something to your home that requires an internet connection and now need to run some wiring. The first thing most people think of is running coaxial cable.

This is the type of wire used in the majority of homes for these types of things and is usually preferred as it provides some flexibility. If the wire was already run for cable service, you don’t need to have a professional pull a line from your home to where you want the coax installed. There are several tools and techniques you can use to install your own coax cables once the line has been pulled.


Communication wires are essential for linking devices such as telephones, TVs and more. Luckily they’re easy to install yourself with the right tools! One of these is CAT-5e cable which can be used instead if your old phone line or an internet connection needs updating today so head on down our website for some tips about installing this type first thing tomorrow morning once you’ve finished preparing your home – we’ll show how it’s done step by step without breaking a sweat (er…screen).

Run a New Line

If the wire is not already installed, you’ll need to have it run. Have your cable provider come out and install a new line leading to where you want it. Typically, this will be in an attic space or directly into the back of the house near an exterior wall for easy access.

Once they’ve run your cable, take measurements so you can have them pull a line to where you want it. If the cable is currently installed, take measurements from the point where you need to add your line so that there is no gap between lines.

Tools Required

  • 3/4-in. spade bit
  • Fish tape
  • 4-in-1 screwdriver
  • Drywall saw
  • Pliers
  • Drill/driver – cordless
  • Electrical tape
  • Tape measure
  • Level
  • Stud finder
  • Wrench set

Materials Required

  • Cable staples
  • PVC conduit
  • Low-voltage remodeling boxes
  • PVC conduit male adapters/ 1-1/2 and 2-in
  • PVC cement

Communication Wiring Overview

The Two Key Cables

CAT-5e phone cable and RG6 coaxial will get you through your next two decades of communication needs.

It might be hard to imagine that we’ll ever need an updated communication system. That is, until you factor in the increasing digitizing of our society and how all electronic components will soon require high-speed links with each other for proper function (and few can survive without them). And as more people cable their homes orcut backroom wires by moving everything onto digital TV signals instead, these outdated phone lines won’t cut it anymore!

Braving the jargon of electronics can be intimidating, but for now all you need to know is that your telephone, TV and Internet needs are handled by two types of cable. They’re both central in distribution systems–the phone line requires four cables (two pairs) while coaxial ones only take up one jack with anther end placed at each device or outlet along their length through which power flows.

If you are not ready to switch out your old phone system for a new one, we’ll show how it’s possible. We’ll also give installation tips so that installing an entire brand-new venture doesn’t have any negative impact on what is already in place!

The beauty of this system is that it will be easy to reconfigure, enhance or expand your electronic needs in the future. You can connect any compatible device by “jumping” cable lines like old-time telephone operators used do first half of 20th century!

Installing a home automation system is easy and can be done in different ways. You’ll need to identify the right time for installation, but once you do it’s simple: just route cables through your open walls or cut them where they’re needed and patch up any holes with drywall covers!

Capabilities of a New Communication System

Communication cable outlet

A home theater PC can turn any television in the house into an entertainment hub. You’ll be able to wirelessly send videos, music and photos from your computer across networks or through Wi-Fi hotspots for viewing on all of these screens at once without having worry about whether they’re connected via cable TV lines because it has its own built-in satellite dish!

There are even ways that you could have more than one device hooked up so everyone gets what he wants when watching something different after dinner–wireless projection anyone?

A world where your home is always on the leading edge of communications, entertainment and technology. With whole-house audio systems routed via cable or phone line to provide an immersive experience for you at every turn in life’s journey; Internet speeds so high they can run a Pentagon without any hiccups–all this comes with integrated control panels that answer questions like “What does my butt feel like?” The future has arrived now by way of advanced networking technologies.

Plan the distribution panel location and cable routes

The key to an upgradeable system is finding the best place for your distribution box. In this house (Fig A, below), we put it in the laundry room because there are plenty of wires and jacks that can be used elsewhere on site while also being close by when needed!

From there, wires can be easily fished to the basement and attic with the use of a device called an installer. From these locations they will go on their way until reaching selected outlet locations anywhere within your home—a furnace room for example or even just some closet space!

If you want easy access to your new panel, position it in an open stud space so that the top and bottom of the wall are at least 6 inches away from any other walls or furniture. You can then use fishing lines attached near each end (as shown on photo 18) for fixing into place before screwing back down again once finished installation has been completed!

Next, plan your cable routing paths. If you’re in an attic or basement that has easy access for cables then it’s usually the best route to take; but there may be times when this is not possible so try using other routes like through closets which can provide unobstructed passage below finished floors with minimal disruption (although sometimes holes need to be cut into drywall).

But if running wires between rooms isn’t feasible because they are located on different levels of a home without any open cavities available – don’t worry! You’ll find creative solutions whether its molding next time someone asks “What do I want out my front door?”

A single cover plate can handle four different lines, but if you have lots of devices to plug in and switch between on a regular basis then our suggestion would be two cable jacks next to each other as well as phone or fax/modem jack. This will help keep things organized for increased productivity!

The extra two phone and coaxial cables will handle “interhouse” networking. You probably won’t need all these lines right away, but pull the wires in anyway! You can attach jacks for each plugging into a cover plate on top of your distribution box or simply coil up any excess pieces neatly inside when not being used–the choice is yours.

With four lines coming out of each outlet, you might think that there is a lot to install. However if wiring and jacks are relatively cheap then the cost may not matter as much when considering how many outlets an installation will provide! One could run one cable or phone jack instead for those who only need it on occasion – regardless make sure your home theater looks stylish with different covers plates at every corner.

Project step-by-step

Step 1: Mount the distribution panel

Begin by cutting open a stud space.

Step 2: Mount the distribution panel

To create a comfortable and safe working environment, it is essential that you screw the distribution box to the sides of your studs. Make sure it projects past 1/2 in from any drywall for access panels ( Photo 18).

To keep things clear between yourself as well as coworkers who are making repairs on this type of project – make sure there’s plenty of room at least 12 inches apart when installing screws into wood surfaces or scaffolding boards without molly pan protection!

Step 3: Drill access holes

To access the attic and basement for cable runs, drill a 2-1/2 in. hole through both top and bottom plates of your house exterior wall.

Step 4: Add PVC conduit

To install the conduit, first drill a hole in each end and then screw on one of our 1-1/2″ male adapters (with locknuts). Cut two 12 inch lengths of 2 inch copper tube for this project – we recommend installing them side by side with cement at both ends. Drop one from your attic floor or poke it up through windowsill below as shown above!

In order to install a distribution panel, you will have open up some space for it and fish cables. If your home already has wiring in the walls or ceilings near where we need access then that’s great because our first step is just cutting out a section of drywall so there won’t be any damage! Photos 1 – 4 show how this can easily get done with basic hand tools like utility knives as well as power drills (or screw guns).
A handsome cover panel made from painted MDF (medium density fiberboard) screwed through the drywall into a stud makes access just a matter of unscrewing it. This is shown in Photo 18 below: The finished product has such rich color that really stands out against any wall color or texture!

Step 5: Run the cable

Cut the outlet openings

In order to add an outlet in a wall, you will need the following supplies: A low voltage remodeling box that is 12 inches from bottom up and has wings on either side. You can cut out this opening with a drywall saw so there’s no drilling required!

Step 6: Detail of cable staples

To minimize the risk of damage, use special staples that hold your CAT-5e cable in place but won’t crush or crimp it.

Step 7: Fish in the Cables

Fish the cables from the openings into a distribution box. Mark both ends of each cable with colored electrical tape for outlet location and run them down through 3/4-in drilled holes in plates coming out of attic, then pull fish up through these two outlets before pushing back into stud cavity below (about 12 inches past where it enters). Leave extra long length that you can cut off later if needed; mark one end somewhere close by but make sure its clear about halfway along so we know which way our plug goes when installing these new plugs!

Step 8: Wire the phone (CAT-5e) jacks

The first thing you need for this installation is a CAT-5e cable. Cut it about an inch from the end and peel back insulation with electrician’s scissors (or pluck out internal strings). Then, open up 4 more inches by using one of these like surgical thread to cut through plastic sheathing at desired location on trunk!

Step 9: Snip the insulation

Snip around the base of your insulation with scissors to remove it. If you cut through with a knife, there’s risk for nicking wires and causing electrical hazards!

Step 10: Punch down the wires

Gently untwist the colored pairs of wires and bend them into matching terminals with a punch-down tool that comes included in every set. Work from front to back, using your newly learned skills for this important task! Push it in until you feel an “explosive snap” which tells us our connector has bitten down on top quality wire—now we just need to trim off any excess pieces flush against side walls before fitting everything back together again.

Step 11: Close-up of CAT-5e modular jack

A modular CAT-5e jack is your new best friend. You will need the ‘A’ color-coded wiring pattern for this guide, which shows how to wire them up in photos 7 – 9 A on page 24 of 10 CCNA Exploration Labs Bundle (10 copies available). This might be tricky at first because there are so many markings with different initials next each other without spaces between them like “AB” vs “AAB”. That said if you follow these steps carefully everything should go smoothly!

Step 12: Wire the coaxial cable jacks

With the stripper tool, cut 5/8 of a foot down from where it meets your coaxial cable. Then turn on some tunes to test if they are playing through correctly! If there is no sound coming out when you rap against either ends or up-and-down motions don’t worry just yet; continue by removing anydouble insulation with small cutting knifes inside until bare wire appears at bottom layer–the inner signal which must be protected while also being able show its color under microscope without damage due too electric current flow.

Step 13: Coaxial cable connector and jack

What you will need for this project are the following items:

2 wire anchors, 4 drywall screws and an electrical tape measure. Now that everything is assembled simply plug in your cord so it can be tested before installation!

Step 14: Crimp on F-connectors

Push the F-connector until you feel some pressure on it with your fingers. Make sure that there are no gaps between this connector and back of connector, then Crimp down using a crimping tool or scissors to cut off excess wire if needed so its about 1/8 inch past where they meet up at an end point.

Step 15: Snap the jacks into the cover plate

Screw the F-connectors to the back of your wall outlets and tighten them with a wrench, then snap in place. Next attach all modular jacks as well; you will need special tools for this (Photos 10 & 11). Securely screw on cover plates into remodeling box before snapping it shut – don’t forget about coaxial cable connectors which can be snapped onto their respective slots at any time!

Step 16: Wire the distribution panel

Connect a No. 10 ground wire with the grounding screw of your box and connect it to one of three main lines coming out from under our house: yellow, black or green. Make sure this connection is secure by tightening up any nuts or bolts on these split-bolt connectors!

Step 17: Organize the panel

Snap in the telecommunication module and cable splitter to organize your phone, coaxial cables for easy hookups. Leave an extra loop from street near future booster allowing you routes these wires into house more easily!
Do not forget: Use Velcro straps on splitsters; they keep them secure during installation while allowing quick removal if needed later one (or all)!

Step 18: Connect the main phone and coax cables

If the main phone line (from your interface box) is all ready in place, punch down that connection. Next attach an F-connector onto one end of a coaxial cable from the hookup at home and tighten it into position on top where you’ll find four holes marked with gray rings around them; this splitter lets out two signals simultaneously so they can go everywhere without breaking up!

Step 19: Connect the other cables

Crimp F-connectors onto the ‘in’ coaxial cables and screw them to your splitter terminals. Cap any unused ones with terminating resistors, then strip CAT5e wires so they’re ready for punchdowns at each end into modules that have been installed in advance on voice or data channels of a 10/100 switch (Photos 7 & 8).

Step 20: Connect jumper cables

Plug the cables into their respective ports on either side of your phone.The Snap in jumper cable will ensure you have power, but it’s optional if wireless charging is an option for this phone or not.”

Step 21: Install a cover panel

If you are unsure of the Punch-down markings on your module in the distribution box, make sure to study these instructions. Sometimes it can be confusing because they use different colors for each slot but no stripe designation is given with them which would indicate what type of wire should go into that particular location!

When hooking up your new sound system, be sure to identify the module wires and jack wires. The uppermost or farthest left slot goes with white stripes on both ends of them; these usually go into a socket that says “module” next time around (Photograph 16).

If you get either one mixed up after installing it all is done just consult directions again before connecting any lines so nothing blows out! To further alleviate confusion plan ahead by using colored jacks too- this will help when friends stop over unexpectedly without warning because they don’t know what’s going where yet (Photo 7).


With all the information you’ve learned in this blog post, are you ready to start planning your coax cable installation? If so, then take a look at our blog for more advice. We’ll provide tips on how to run cables through walls and floors as well as other best practices. For example, we recommend using digital TV antenna boosters when installing new connections or updating older ones. Check out our website today!

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